The Swiss capital city of Bern certainly doesn’t have the airs and graces of a capital. The town has a rather provincial, homely feel. But it’s definitely worth a visit. The River Aare makes a huge loop around the compact heart of the Old Town which is a fine place to relax and wander.

In a country which mainstreams on landscape and scenery, it’s easy to overlook the cities, but Bern is one of two Swiss cities which are absolutely not to be missed (the other is Geneva). Wander through the streets of the Old Town down to the river, where you might come face-to-face with a bear. Bern is big on bears, though the live ones on the bank of the river don’t give the impression that they are especially happy with their urban lifestyle.

Art lovers should head for the city’s celebrated Kunstmuseum (art museum) and the Zentrum Paul Klee, where the focus is predictably on Paul Klee. The world’s largest collection of Klee’s work is on show in a dazzling modern building. Take time, too, for the Museum of Communication, which in December 2018 was awarded the Council of Europe's Museum Prize for 2019.

The city’s main station (simply called Berne or Bern) lies at the western end of the Old Town. From there you can take an ICE direct to Frankfurt-am-Main or Berlin, a EuroCity to Hamburg or Milan and a TGV Lyria direct to Dijon or Paris. In a word, Bern is very well connected. There are regular departures to most major Swiss cities. Interlaken, Basel, Lucerne and Zurich are all just an hour away, while Lausanne and Geneva are under 2 hrs away by train. Bern thus makes an excellent base for rail-based excursions through Switzerland.

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