With the tourism in Croatia so focused on the coast, the country’s capital sometimes struggles to get visitors’ attention. That’s a pity, because Zagreb certainly deserves a visit. The city on the River Sava is by far the largest in Croatia. From its historic core, known as Gradec, the city has spread south from the hill over the adjacent valley. First stop for newcomers is the busy Ban Jelacic Square, from where most of Zagreb’s key sights are easily reached on foot.

The main railway station is Zagreb Glavni kolodvor, which is an easy ten-minute walk south from Ban Jelacic. It’s a beautifully proportioned neoclassical confection, just dripping with Habsburg style. Take time to have a peek at the stately Esplanade Hotel, across a green to the west of the station forecourt. Generations of travellers wanting to break their journey on the famous Orient Express spent a night or two at the Esplanade.

The Orient Express is long gone from the departure boards at Zagreb Glavni kolodvor, but there are still plenty of international trains. There are daily departures for Belgrade, Budapest, Frankfurt, Ljubljana, Munich, Salzburg, Vienna and Zürich. There are also direct trains to the coast, with services to Rijeka and Split taking four and six hours respectively.