Belgrade

The center of Serbian culture, Belgrade’s a city to see

Belgrade, once the capital of the two republics of Serbia and Montenegro, has a population of 2 million and lies on the southern tier of the Carpathian Basin where the River Sava links up with the Danube. Truly the gateway to travel into Serbia, the city has been "the capital of the Serbs" since 1403, when the Turks drove the Serbs northward.

The train station lies on Belgrade’s south side. From the station, trams 1, 2, and 13 head for the Kalemegdan Citadel, on the north side of town and a major attraction. A Roman camp in the 1st century AD, today, this is a complex of Orthodox churches, Turkish baths, Muslin tombs, and a large military museum presenting a warlike view of the country.

The art and culture of Serbia are showcased at the National Museum, which displays everything from ancient artifacts to Picasso paintings. Serbian folkloric costumes are best seen at the Ethnographical Museum. A section of great charm is Skadarlija, originally settled by gypsies but later turned into a retreat for bohemians. Much of its 19th-century artistic flavor remains intact.

© 2009, Wiley Publishing, Inc.