Chenonceaux

Renaissance love spat enshrined in France’s favorite chateau

A Renaissance masterpiece, the Château de Chenonceau is best known for the dames de Chenonceau, who once occupied it. The village, whose year-round population is less than 300, is spelled with a final "x," but the château isn't. Chenonceau is one of the most remarkable castles in France because it spans an entire river. The way the waters of the Cher surge and foam beneath its vaulted medieval foundations has been described as mystical. Many visitors consider this their favorite château in all of France.

In 1547, Henri II gave Chenonceau to his mistress, Diane de Poitiers. When Henri died, Catherine became regent and forced Diane out and added her own touches, building a two-story gallery across the bridge -- obviously inspired by her native Florence. Today, Gobelin tapestries, including one depicting a woman pouring water over the back of an angry dragon, cover many of the château's walls. The chapel contains a marble Virgin and Child by Murillo as well as portraits of Catherine de Médicis in black and white. There's even a portrait of the stern Catherine in the former bedroom of her rival.

© 2009, Wiley Publishing, Inc.