Zagreb

Zagreb, more stopover than destination,
has charms that get overlooked

To be sure, Zagreb's attractions aren't as obvious other cities’; it takes patience to discover it, and knowledge about its past. The city's moods are subtle and its treasures so understated that travelers cannot help but fall in love with it.

Zagreb has always played a pivotal role in Croatia, mostly because of its position in this central European country where western and eastern Europe meet -- and where they frequently have been unable to compromise. Today Zagreb, Croatia’s capital, remains a dichotomy of old ways and new, of tradition and progress; after nearly a millennium of foreign domination, it’s trying to find its independent persona.

On sunny Saturdays, Zagreb pulsates with color and buzzes with energy, humming as fashionistas haggle with wizened old ladies in babushkas at the colorful Dolac market before moving on to swanky outdoor Kaptol cafes for lunch. Weekdays, Zagreb has serious hustle and bustle with hordes rushing to work and a perpetual gallery seated at sidewalk cafes in clouds of coffee-scented air. Evenings, Zagreb is all softness and laughter as diners linger over dessert in Gornji Grad, head for nightclubs to listen to jazz with friends, or stroll the cobblestone streets.

© 2009, Wiley Publishing, Inc.